Taco stands, long beach lunches and the late crowd. Our picks first, then everything we've mapped. The heart of town: the plaza, taco stands, bars and the main beach a block away. Lively, and loud on weekend nights.
Breakfast & coffee · Centro
A two-level rooftop over Avenida Revolución serving Mediterranean plates with Mexican touches: mezze, spanakopita, zarandeado snapper, and Sayshuka at brunch. Two-for-one spritzes from 5pm and live music most evenings; come up for sunset. Brunch closed Wednesdays.
2-for-1 spritz 5–11pm
Breakfast & coffee · Centro
A small café half a block from the plaza on Calle Marlín, open from 8am for smoothie bowls, sourdough toast, bagels and cold brew, with plenty for vegans. Free wifi and seats inside and out make it an easy morning stop.
Seafood · Main Beach
A two-level palapa on the main beach since 1994: Mediterranean cooking with Mexican touches off a mesquite grill, red beet ravioli, spicy tuna tostadas, and tables on the sand at sunset. Mondays bring a salsa class at 7 and a Cuban band at 8.
Beach clubs · Main Beach
A beach club where Calle Delfines meets the main beach, open daily 9am to midnight. A lounger is a MX$750 day pass, all of it credit for food and drink; cocktails run MX$200 to 320, with DJs at sunset and surf lessons from the sand.
Lunch & dinner · Centro
Stylish upstairs lounge for bao buns, gyoza and cocktails. Music can be too loud for conversation.
Lunch & dinner · Centro (Plaza)
Treehouse-style upstairs dining over the plaza with creative rolls (dragon, plantain) and excellent cocktails.
Lunch & dinner · Centro
Big, popular wood-fired pizza house with a rooftop, plus pasta and steak. Tiramisu is a favorite; some crusts come out underdone.
Lunch & dinner · Centro
A family-run restaurant on Avenida Revolución, a block from the plaza, cooking since 2001 and known for its chiles rellenos (with shrimp, or vegetarian), fajitas flamed at the table and tortilla soup. Take the upstairs terrace over the street; open from 1pm, late on Saturdays.
Margarita happy hour 4–5pm
Al pastor after dark, fish tacos by day. Bring pesos. Read our guide
Tacos & street food · Centro (Plaza)
Late-night al pastor spot by the plaza with multilevel seating. Fast, cheap and always busy.
Tacos & street food · Centro
Ivan's al pastor stand on Calle Marlín, with the trompo turning out front and a family recipe for the pork. Tacos run about MX$24 to 35, with quesadillas and gringas; open until 2am, closed Tuesdays, and busiest after 8pm.
Tacos & street food · Main Beach
Tiny family-run stand for grilled fish tacos with a loyal following. No posted menu or prices, and it isn't fast.
Tacos & street food · Centro
Restaurant and bar that pours only Mexican spirits, with guided tastings of tequila, mezcal, raicilla and sotol. Pork belly, brisket and catch-of-the-day tacos; on the pricier side.
Tacos & street food · Centro
Counter-service taco and guisado spot on Marlín, steps from the beach; chicken mole, chipotle chicken, machaca, pork with nopales and vegetarian fillings, with good salsas and agua de jamaica. Few seats.
Tacos & street food · Centro
Late-night taco stand on a side street by the river, popular with locals and anyone looking for food after the bars.
Ceviche, aguachile and the catch off the pangas. Read our guide
Seafood · Main Beach
A two-level palapa on the main beach since 1994: Mediterranean cooking with Mexican touches off a mesquite grill, red beet ravioli, spicy tuna tostadas, and tables on the sand at sunset. Mondays bring a salsa class at 7 and a Cuban band at 8.
Seafood · Centro
Long-running spot that will cook the fish you catch, with a strong tequila list and sopa de mariscos.
Seafood · Main Beach
Recently renovated beachside grill for octopus, ceviche, fish tacos and mango margaritas. Can be slow when busy.
Seafood · Centro
Family-owned, open-air upstairs spot near the beach; tuna tostadas, octopus carpaccio and fried fish tacos, all from scratch.
Seafood · Main Beach
Little tables steps from the sand for homestyle aguachile, steak tacos and burgers.
Seafood · Centro
Fresh, lighter fare with a frequently changing menu: fish of the day, tuna sashimi, jicama salad and habanero margaritas.
Seafood · Centro
Mexican bar and grill on Av. Revolución known for coconut shrimp, grilled seafood and margaritas at fair prices.
Chilaquiles, good espresso and somewhere to sit with a laptop. Read our guide
Breakfast & coffee · Centro
A two-level rooftop over Avenida Revolución serving Mediterranean plates with Mexican touches: mezze, spanakopita, zarandeado snapper, and Sayshuka at brunch. Two-for-one spritzes from 5pm and live music most evenings; come up for sunset. Brunch closed Wednesdays.
2-for-1 spritz 5–11pm
Breakfast & coffee · Centro
A small café half a block from the plaza on Calle Marlín, open from 8am for smoothie bowls, sourdough toast, bagels and cold brew, with plenty for vegans. Free wifi and seats inside and out make it an easy morning stop.
Breakfast & coffee · Centro
Fresh juices, smoothie and açaí bowls, chia pudding and wellness shots, beautifully presented.
Breakfast & coffee · Centro (south)
Modern café with AC and a shaded porch; gluten-free and vegan options, waffles and specialty coffee. On the pricier side.
Breakfast & coffee · Centro
Long-running café in a yellow building by the plaza, serving breakfast all day; green chilaquiles, steak and eggs, mango smoothies and lattes, with patio seats facing the square.
Breakfast & coffee · Centro
Family-style Mexican restaurant on the road toward Punta de Mita, open from breakfast to dinner; mole, tacos and generous plates away from the crowds.
Breakfast & coffee · Centro
Artisan chocolate shop on José Mariscal with organic cacao drinks, hot or chilled, spiced chocolates, chocolate smoothies and baked goods to take home.
Breakfast & coffee · Centro
A small Mexican kitchen on Avenida Revolución for breakfast and lunch, with plates to eat there or take away.
From family kitchens to a table you book ahead.
Lunch & dinner · Centro
Stylish upstairs lounge for bao buns, gyoza and cocktails. Music can be too loud for conversation.
Lunch & dinner · Centro (Plaza)
Treehouse-style upstairs dining over the plaza with creative rolls (dragon, plantain) and excellent cocktails.
Lunch & dinner · Centro
Big, popular wood-fired pizza house with a rooftop, plus pasta and steak. Tiramisu is a favorite; some crusts come out underdone.
Lunch & dinner · Centro
A family-run restaurant on Avenida Revolución, a block from the plaza, cooking since 2001 and known for its chiles rellenos (with shrimp, or vegetarian), fajitas flamed at the table and tortilla soup. Take the upstairs terrace over the street; open from 1pm, late on Saturdays.
Margarita happy hour 4–5pm
Lunch & dinner · Centro (near arroyo)
Elevated dinner from an Italian chef: bone marrow, tuna tartare, lamb chops and Basque cheesecake, with a strong wine list.
Lunch & dinner · Centro (Plaza)
Special-occasion spot overlooking the plaza with tableside salsa, fire-ritual fajitas and yellowfin tuna.
Lunch & dinner · Centro (Plaza)
Open-flame grill with plaza views: picanha, parrillada, molcajete and a burger that holds its own.
Lunch & dinner · Centro (Plaza)
Lively plaza spot with a DJ, strong margaritas, ceviche, the Taco Gobernador and big burgers.
A table on the sand, a cold drink, the sunset.
Beach clubs · Main Beach
A beach club where Calle Delfines meets the main beach, open daily 9am to midnight. A lounger is a MX$750 day pass, all of it credit for food and drink; cocktails run MX$200 to 320, with DJs at sunset and surf lessons from the sand.
Beach clubs · Centro
Beachfront restaurant on Gaviota with tables and loungers by the sand; fish and chips, chiles rellenos, ceviche and mango margaritas, with friendly English-speaking staff.
Beach clubs · Centro
No-frills beach restaurant off Delfines with sand underfoot, grilled fish, shrimp cocktails and some of the biggest margaritas in town. Service can be slow when busy.
Paletas, pastries and chocolate-dipped bananas.
Sweet stuff · Centro
Gelato, crepes and bubble waffles at low prices. Paying in pesos avoids a poor card exchange rate.
Mezcal, live bands off the plaza and the places open late. Read our guide
Bars & nights · Centro (Plaza)
The pub on the plaza, with tables outside and a second floor looking over the square: four big screens showing whatever game is on, Angus burgers and wings from MX$240, poutine for the Canadians, and a long tequila and mezcal list. Kitchen until 11pm.
Bars & nights · Centro (near beach)
Small two-storey bar a few steps from the beach, with tuna sashimi and ceviche at good prices. Takes cards.
Bars & nights · Centro (Plaza)
Tequila bar with a big selection and tastings, sports on TV, smoked wings and ceviche. Check your order and bill.
Bars & nights · Centro
Friendly sports bar in the middle of town with good drinks, pub food and a resident dog.
Bars & nights · Centro
Small, friendly sports-bar spot just off the plaza with a handful of outdoor seats; wings, loaded nachos and cold beer with games on TV.
Bars & nights · Centro
Café by day and hookah bar by night on José Mariscal, with live bands most evenings, swing seats at the bar and a few vegan plates like jackfruit nachos. Street-side, so expect traffic noise.
Bars & nights · Centro
Cozy bar on the plaza with a balcony over the square; a relaxed spot for a drink and people-watching from midday to midnight.
Bars & nights · Centro
The long-running upstairs bar on Calle Marlín, up a spiral staircase off the plaza: two levels with an open deck over the dance floor, live bands most nights and a DJ on Fridays. It fills after 10pm and stays open until 3am, 4am at weekends.
2-for-1 drinks, a different one each night Sundays and Mondays and Tuesdays and Wednesdays and Thursdays
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