Taco stands, long beach lunches and the late crowd. Our picks first, then everything we've mapped.
Breakfast & coffee · Centro
A two-level rooftop over Avenida Revolución serving Mediterranean plates with Mexican touches: mezze, spanakopita, zarandeado snapper, and Sayshuka at brunch. Two-for-one spritzes from 5pm and live music most evenings; come up for sunset. Brunch closed Wednesdays.
2-for-1 spritz 5–11pm
Breakfast & coffee · Centro
A small café half a block from the plaza on Calle Marlín, open from 8am for smoothie bowls, sourdough toast, bagels and cold brew, with plenty for vegans. Free wifi and seats inside and out make it an easy morning stop.
Breakfast & coffee · East (Av. Revolución)
Hearty vegan food in a surf-themed upstairs room: soy chorizo burritos, vegan omelettes and smoothie bowls.
Lunch & dinner · North Side
Candlelit jungle-garden restaurant with live music some nights. Good for breakfast (chilaquiles, birria with eggs) and evening margaritas.
Seafood · Main Beach
A two-level palapa on the main beach since 1994: Mediterranean cooking with Mexican touches off a mesquite grill, red beet ravioli, spicy tuna tostadas, and tables on the sand at sunset. Mondays bring a salsa class at 7 and a Cuban band at 8.
Breakfast & coffee · North Side
Handmade chocolate shop and café with excellent lattes, donuts, bonbons and custom cakes. Air-conditioned.
Breakfast & coffee · North Side (by bridge)
Healthy café for avocado toast, poke bowls and smoothies, with tofu and soyrizo swaps for vegans.
Bars & nights · Centro (Plaza)
The pub on the plaza, with tables outside and a second floor looking over the square: four big screens showing whatever game is on, Angus burgers and wings from MX$240, poutine for the Canadians, and a long tequila and mezcal list. Kitchen until 11pm.
Al pastor after dark, fish tacos by day. Bring pesos. Read our guide
Tacos & street food · Centro
Restaurant and bar that pours only Mexican spirits, with guided tastings of tequila, mezcal, raicilla and sotol. Pork belly, brisket and catch-of-the-day tacos; on the pricier side.
Tacos & street food · Centro
Counter-service taco and guisado spot on Marlín, steps from the beach; chicken mole, chipotle chicken, machaca, pork with nopales and vegetarian fillings, with good salsas and agua de jamaica. Few seats.
Ceviche, aguachile and the catch off the pangas. Read our guide
Seafood · Main Beach
A two-level palapa on the main beach since 1994: Mediterranean cooking with Mexican touches off a mesquite grill, red beet ravioli, spicy tuna tostadas, and tables on the sand at sunset. Mondays bring a salsa class at 7 and a Cuban band at 8.
Seafood · Playa Los Muertos
A wooden deck over the water on the path to Playa de los Muertos, open 9am to 10pm, with the whole bay in view. Order the guacamole made at the table, the lobster chile relleno or the molcajete; book for the hour before sunset.
Seafood · South end of main beach
A deck three metres above the sand at the calm south end of the main beach, run by a family of local fishermen: ceviche, seared tuna and the day's catch, cocktails made with house shrubs, and a 3 to 5pm happy hour.
Happy hour 3–5pm
Seafood · Centro
Long-running spot that will cook the fish you catch, with a strong tequila list and sopa de mariscos.
Seafood · Main Beach
Recently renovated beachside grill for octopus, ceviche, fish tacos and mango margaritas. Can be slow when busy.
Seafood · Centro
Family-owned, open-air upstairs spot near the beach; tuna tostadas, octopus carpaccio and fried fish tacos, all from scratch.
Seafood · North Side
Upscale rooftop at the far north end with big ocean views. Grilled snapper, octopus and aguachile; pool day passes available.
Seafood · North side
Classic Mexican seafood restaurant a little outside the center; known for fiery shrimp aguachile, ceviche and seafood platters.
Chilaquiles, good espresso and somewhere to sit with a laptop. Read our guide
Breakfast & coffee · Centro
A two-level rooftop over Avenida Revolución serving Mediterranean plates with Mexican touches: mezze, spanakopita, zarandeado snapper, and Sayshuka at brunch. Two-for-one spritzes from 5pm and live music most evenings; come up for sunset. Brunch closed Wednesdays.
2-for-1 spritz 5–11pm
Breakfast & coffee · Centro
A small café half a block from the plaza on Calle Marlín, open from 8am for smoothie bowls, sourdough toast, bagels and cold brew, with plenty for vegans. Free wifi and seats inside and out make it an easy morning stop.
Breakfast & coffee · East (Av. Revolución)
Hearty vegan food in a surf-themed upstairs room: soy chorizo burritos, vegan omelettes and smoothie bowls.
Breakfast & coffee · North Side
Handmade chocolate shop and café with excellent lattes, donuts, bonbons and custom cakes. Air-conditioned.
Breakfast & coffee · North Side (by bridge)
Healthy café for avocado toast, poke bowls and smoothies, with tofu and soyrizo swaps for vegans.
Breakfast & coffee · South (Av. Revolución)
Family-owned breakfast spot with porch seating; chilaquiles and smoothies are the draws.
Breakfast & coffee · North Side
Calm north-end café with a rooftop yoga studio; known for açaí bowls and a smoked salmon and brie bagel.
Breakfast & coffee · North Side
Quiet, shaded café in a small plaza with a garden view. Good coffee, smoothies, banana bread and poached eggs.
From family kitchens to a table you book ahead.
Lunch & dinner · North Side
Candlelit jungle-garden restaurant with live music some nights. Good for breakfast (chilaquiles, birria with eggs) and evening margaritas.
Lunch & dinner · Centro (Plaza)
Special-occasion spot overlooking the plaza with tableside salsa, fire-ritual fajitas and yellowfin tuna.
Lunch & dinner · North Side
Friendly spot on a quiet street known for burritos, chicken mole, queso fundido and happy-hour margaritas.
Lunch & dinner · Centro
Sayulita institution for fish and shrimp tacos and chiles rellenos. Large portions, frequent lines, cash only.
Lunch & dinner · North Side (by bridge)
Budget open-air spot with a huge menu, including menudo every day. Service is unhurried.
Lunch & dinner · Centro (near arroyo)
Locally owned, with homemade pasta; go for the carbonara or the mussels. Very celiac-friendly.
A table on the sand, a cold drink, the sunset.
Beach clubs · North Side
Trendy beach club with a pool, loungers and no roaming vendors. Music is loud, so it's more party than relaxation.
Beach clubs · North Side
Toes-in-the-sand spot serving breakfast to dinner: tacos, hefty burgers and cocktails, with warm staff.
Paletas, pastries and chocolate-dipped bananas.
Sweet stuff · Centro
Gelato, crepes and bubble waffles at low prices. Paying in pesos avoids a poor card exchange rate.
Mezcal, live bands off the plaza and the places open late. Read our guide
Bars & nights · Centro (Plaza)
The pub on the plaza, with tables outside and a second floor looking over the square: four big screens showing whatever game is on, Angus burgers and wings from MX$240, poutine for the Canadians, and a long tequila and mezcal list. Kitchen until 11pm.
Bars & nights · Centro (near beach)
Small two-storey bar a few steps from the beach, with tuna sashimi and ceviche at good prices. Takes cards.
Bars & nights · Centro (Plaza)
Tequila bar with a big selection and tastings, sports on TV, smoked wings and ceviche. Check your order and bill.
Bars & nights · North side
Long-running cocktail bar, now on Av. Revolución on the north side, mixing house drinks with local ingredients. Opens in the morning for coffee and breakfast, with a patio, board games and some live music.
Bars & nights · Centro
Café by day and hookah bar by night on José Mariscal, with live bands most evenings, swing seats at the bar and a few vegan plates like jackfruit nachos. Street-side, so expect traffic noise.
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