The sides of Sayulita, and which one suits you

Centro and the plaza

The heart of town: the plaza, the parish church, taco stands, bars, shops and the main beach a block or two away. You won't need a cart or a taxi for anything; nearly everything is a few minutes' walk.

It's also the loudest side. Bars and music around the plaza run late, especially on weekends and holidays, and fireworks come with every fiesta. Space costs the most here, so rooms and condos tend to be smaller for the money. Centro suits nights out, first visits and anyone who wants to walk everywhere; pack earplugs.

The north side

Across the river from Centro, the north side is flatter and calmer: residential streets, palm groves and villas behind the long north end of the beach. The walk into the plaza is level, about eight minutes from the middle of the side, and some of the nicest houses in town are here.

It's spread out, so the far end is a longer walk. In season the Friday market sets up just north of the bridge, and the turtle camp on the beach releases hatchlings at sunset. The sea at this end has stronger rips and shore break than the south, so it's better for watching surf than for small swimmers. The north side suits families and groups who want a pool and quiet nights.

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The south side

The hillside lanes between the plaza and Playa los Muertos: rentals, guesthouses, local homes and long-term residents, with views over the bay and a short walk down to the south end of the beach, where the surf schools are. The plaza is about five minutes away.

The hill above the plaza on this side, known as Gringo Hill (Monte Calvario), is where foreigners first settled, with big villas and sea views; houses on its northwest face can hear the plaza on busy nights. Elsewhere it's mostly quiet apart from the odd rooster, though there is new building in places, and the streets are steep. The south side suits couples, surfers and anyone who wants the plaza and a calm cove both within walking distance.

Playa los Muertos

The sheltered cove just south of town, reached by a path over the hill and through the painted cemetery. Rocks at both ends break up the waves, so this is the calmest water near Sayulita, and it's popular with Mexican families. Places to stay are few: a handful of hotels and houses in the jungle on the slope above the beach.

Nights are quiet, and the plaza is a 10 to 15 minute walk, uphill one way. Services on the sand are basic. Los Muertos suits families with small children and anyone who would rather swim than surf.

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Nanzal hill

The hill above the north beach, built up since the early 2000s with large, often gated villas and wide ocean views. It's the quietest side of town and the most private.

It's also steep. The walk down to the north beach is short but the climb back is hard, and the plaza is 20 minutes or more on foot, so most people here rent a cart or drive. Some cart companies won't send carts up the steepest streets, so ask before you book. Hillside houses can have weaker water pressure; it's worth asking about the rooftop tank and pump. Nanzal suits groups and couples who want views and privacy and don't mind riding to dinner.

Up the valley

Inland along the river and around the road into town: everyday Sayulita, with family homes, the soccer field, taquerías, the bus stop, the bank, the clinic and grocery shops. There are fewer visitor services and more neighbors, and stays here tend to cost less.

Noise is mixed: quieter side streets, but traffic on Avenida Revolución and the usual dogs and roosters. The plaza is about ten minutes' walk, and the beach a few minutes beyond it. Up the valley suits budget trips, longer stays and anyone who'd rather live like a local than look at the sea.

Choosing your side

Start with your evenings. If you'll be out late, stay in Centro and walk home. For quiet nights and a pool, look at the north side, Nanzal or Los Muertos. With small children who want to swim, Los Muertos or the south end makes beach days easy; with a group sharing one big house, the north side and Nanzal have most of the large villas.

Then be honest about the hills. Anywhere uphill means a daily workout or a golf cart, and carts get scarce from December to Easter, when rates rise sharply too; Christmas–New Year and Semana Santa can book up a year ahead. Many places quote rates before Nayarit's 5% lodging tax and 16% IVA, so check what the total is.

Our Stay page puts the six sides side by side: the walk to the plaza and the beach, how each feels and the middle range of published prices.